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Carlos Buhler, holding a home made banner of the Peña Guara Mountain Club, on the summit of Mt. Everest, October 8, 1983, after making the first ascent of Mt. Everest’s last unclimbed wall, the Kangshung Face. Photo by Louis F. Reichardt
Carlos Buhler is one of America's most accomplished high altitude mountaineers, with 46 international climbing expeditions. His presentations weave a fabric of success and failure on some of his most interesting and challenging routes up the remarkable mountains in the world. His experiences illustrate the fine dividing line between unique success and total catastrophe; between world class accomplishment and heart wrenching tragedy. His experience leading international climbing teams has given him unique perspectives into the delicate challenges of multicultural communication, leadership development and team dynamics.
“What they did has to be considered among the two or three most difficult big-wall Himalayan climbs ever done.”
Dougald Mcdonald, Past editor-in-chief of Rock and Ice magazine, quoted in Men’s Journal, Sept., 1998, after the first ascent of Changabang’s North Face Direct.
"His climbing career is the one by which I judge all others. His achievements are unparalleled in American climbing, and probably in world climbing."
Damien Gildea, Author of Mountaineering in Antarctica and leader of seven successful expeditions to the remote and little explored ranges of the Antarctic Continent
"The American climber Carlos Buhler is one of the world's most successful expeditioners. Over the last 25 years he has been at the forefront of exploratory mountaineering, with many first ascents in Peru, Alaska and the Himalaya. High altitude successes include alpine ascents of K2 North Ridge with the Russians, Kangchenjunga North Face with Peter Habeler and the first ascent of Everest's Kangshung Face. However, it is on the more elegant, 6000ers and 7000ers that he has really made his mark, most notably on Changabang's North Face Direct and, this year, the first ascent of Sepu Kangri"
Stephen Venables, Spokesman for the Alpine Club, Great Britain, quoted in preparation for Carlos’s lecture to the Alpine Club, in London, Nov, 2003
"Buhler is “arguably" the best American Himalayan climber there is. Nobody has had such a long and distinguished career as he has"
Dr. Louis F. Reichardt, Former President of the American Alpine Club and neurobiologist at the University of California, San Francisco, quoted in the November, 2002, Bozeman Chronicle story after Carlos’s first ascent of Tibet’s Sepu Kangri
“He has spent the last quarter century amassing a record of ascents and attempts that rivals anyone, anywhere. A vigorous proponent and practitioner of the small and self-sufficient expedition, Buhler has pushed the edge of the alpinism envelope as aggressively as any climber in the world…”
2003 Mountainfilm, Telluride, Colorado's annual international festival of mountain film, art and ideas to promote a better world
The parallels were immediately drawn between the critical success factors that lead to a successful summit and those that lead to a successful company. The one item that is key to both, which was very well delivered by you, is individual commitment. It was very apparent that commitment differentiated your group from previous Everest expeditions, and that with full group commitment, in conjunction with a well put together plan, most anything can be accomplished.
Bernie W. Stewart, President, Western Oceanic, Inc., Houston, Texas
You give new definition to excellence—both in your personal accomplishments as well as in your skill in sharing your story on stage. You have our respect, and our deep appreciation.
Peter Yaremko, Manager, Publication and Events, Rolm Corporation Santa Clara, California
“He is a leader in converting the sport of alpine climbing from an assault mentality to one of group centered, strategic planning; mutual respect between climbers and sherpas; use of high tech gear; and best environmental practices.”
Ted Mischaikov, Member of the Western Washington University Foundation Board of Directors and President and COO of the Trillium Corporation, quoted in Windows on Western, News for Alumni and Friends of Western Washington University, spring 2003
1998 Russian American Changabang Expedition
1997 First Ascent of University Peak East Buttress
The First Ascent of Baruntse East Ridge
1985 Ama Dablam Northeast Face
1988 Kangchenjunga - First American Ascent
I climbed on three expeditions attempting 4 different routes before reaching the summit of K2 via the North Ridge in 1996 with my Russian teammates.
The West Face of Siula Grande via a new route called Avoiding the Touch
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